Having only been back in the Fancy for a little over two years after an absence of some nineteen years, I consider myself to be a novice when it comes to the breeding of quality exhibition budgerigars, with still much to learn. Wishing to improve on this situation, I have joined five specialist budgerigar clubs within reasonable travelling distance. I attend as many of the club meetings as possible and listen to all the guest speakers that are invited. I also pay close attention to all the comments that arise from the members present.
Out of this, one thing has become very apparent. That is all who speak or write on the subject of budgerigar management and breeding must be very guarded on how they present their information to the newcomers. They must always stress that the methods they employ work for them, but it does not mean that there are not other ways that are just as successful. Although most do emphasise this point, it is surprising how many of the beginners read these articles or listen to speakers and still think that is the only way.
It is my considered opinion that all who go in for the breeding of any form of livestock, must endeavour to find out all they can about their particular species. This means reading every possible publication on the subject, as well as listening to as many speakers as they can. Then sit down and sift all the information gathered. You will find many common areas where all agree and these must be the yardstick you use to get started, but from then on it is up to you to be observant and see if there are any points you can improve upon. It is a well known fact that a fresh mind can often come up with something that the established ones have overlooked.
Just to digress for a moment, I am employed as a Motor Repair Instructor and often after showing a trainee how to do a certain task, he will comment that a friend, or mate, does not do it that way. To this I always reply, "you now know two ways of doing the same job, so try them both out and you decide which is the best way for you to tackle it".
The beginner would do well to keep this maxim to the fore. He would also be well advised to get acquainted with a successful local breeder and study his ways of management. At least you will have seen that the methods he advocates work in at least one establishment.
I now intend to cover some of the more basic points that arise in general management of our birds and the many diverse views that exist. I will also illustrate some of the points I employ, although as stated before, I do not claim they are the right way - they just work for me.
There are those who fly both sexes together for most of the year and then part them prior to breeding, whilst others will advocate that they are kept in separate flights, yet members of both groups successfully breed birds year after year. Whichever method you decide to use, you will still be going against nature. After all, they are reputed to be birds that like company, so is it fair to keep the sexes apart? Many animal species only have the sexes coming together at breeding time. On the other hand, is it fair to let birds form "pair bonds" whilst flying together and then split them up because the pairings do not suit our plans? The choice is yours.
Again the controversy continues. Some say it is essential and others say it is not. I think it depends a lot on where you live, as the weather can vary so much. Also the type of structure must be taken into account as well as how sheltered the birdroom is. I only use heat for my own comfort whilst tending the birds, plus I do not want the trouble associated with frozen drinkers.
What can I say that has not already been covered! By now even the new beginner must realise that there are many perfectly satisfactory feeding mixtures open to him. I will always remember the comments of one established champion breeder - if your birds are in breeding fettle they will raise healthy young on virtually any seed mixture available! Personally I use a mix of two thirds English canary plus one third of mixed millets. I also feed soaked oats and my own egg food supplement when the birds are breeding and during the annual moult. I feel the addition of these two items are necessary to ensure maximum growth of our exhibition birds. However, I do not think either are needed to produce just healthy stock. Again the ball is in your court and you will have to play it.
Here it is the show season which dictates when you have to pair up your birds, because if you want good sized young which are moulted out and ready for the early shows, you will have to pair up early. Others however will say it is better to wait until March in the U.K. when our native birds will be going to nest, yet I wonder who is right? A friend of mine is only interested in breeding budgerigars for the variety of colours they afford and he has been colony breeding them for a number of years. His nest boxes are left up all the year round and they are all of different shapes and sizes, including coconut shells. He finds that his birds breed all the year round but will only do so as they come into condition and this varies from bird to bird. His view is that the birds breed when food is plentiful and in nature this coincides with Spring, but our cage birds always have food available and so will breed at any time. So when is the right time for our imported feathered friend? - once again the decision is yours.
Recently we have had two breeders from different sides of the ocean putting forward their methods of introducing the birds to the breeding cages, both saying they put the hen in first, though one did shut the hen out of the nest box for a couple of days. The other put forward, that if you study the wild birds, it is the hen who prepares the nest site. Now while I do not dispute this point, I would argue that with many birds, it is the cock who decides in which area the nest is to be built. Putting all this to one side, I do not think it matters which sex goes in first, but as I run one cock to three hens at the same time, it does become rather academic. You will have to decide from your own experiences.
Still the views differ, one camp saying, leave them alone once the first egg is laid, then inspect them once a day after their chicks are due to hatch. Others advocate that the boxes be inspected as often as possible. For myself, I find it difficult to put forward a set pattern. It all depends on the individual birds. Some hens are capable mothers and a daily visit will suffice, others may demand more frequent inspection. When chicks are due to hatch, I have no hesitation in looking in the boxes frequently and I have often saved a chick that was not being fed. I also move chicks from one nest to another at all ages.
I have decided to deal with this on its own, as I must say that I do not subscribe to the bacteria on fingers theory as the prime cause of addled eggs. I have no doubt that bacteria can enter the egg through the porous shell, but there must be more risk of infection from the bacteria present in the droppings in the nest box. All I can say is that I handle and mark every egg and move them to others nests, if required. I raise a reasonable percentage of young, at least as favourable as those who do not mark eggs, though to be honest, I have been known to drop an egg and it is always one from an important pairing! If you decide to mark eggs, wait until the second day when the shell has hardened, also move slowly - it is sudden movement that does the damage.
Some say foster out the young, others say leave them with the hen, but limit her to two chicks. All I can say, is that this year most of my hens were left to rear on their own, because as I said earlier, I run one cock with three hens.
Most of the hens had to rear four chicks as my first round results were very good. When you think about it the seed dishes are only twelve inches away from the nest boxes, so the hens do not have to expend energy foraging for food. I also feel the exercise is good for them. In the two cases where I have left the cock with the hen, they have only carried seed to the nest box entrance. In fact when the young left the box I had to remove the cock as he was attacking the young. So once again it is up to you.
I could go on forever, but please remember that although I have used my methods to illustrate certain points, do not assume that it is the right or only way. All I will say is, listen to all, then make a decision for yourself. After all that is the very essence of the Fancy. Have you made the right pairing to produce that Club Show winner? Do not be put off by failures, we all have these at some time or other but the true fanciers survive these setbacks to fight another day.
"Best of luck with your decisions".
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