From the outset, I would like to stress that I do not advise the following method of breeding exhibition budgerigars to the beginner. I believe all should serve an apprenticeship in birdroom control and breeding management, before embarking on any form of breeding plan to improve visual features. But then, that is only my opinion. However you must learn to recognise warning signs within your stud, that all is not well, as well as being able to overcome the problems that one can encounter, even during a good overall season.
I first used this unorthordox method back in the late 1950's and it helped me to establish a useful exhibition stud, for a reasonable financial outlay. If you have unlimited cash resources, you will have not need to adopt this practice, as you will be able to purchase suitable breeding stock. For those with limited means, it is one way of trying to overcome the problem of building up a stock of useful birds; it does not guarantee success; nothing in live-stock breeding ever does, you still need that touch of luck.
When I returned to the hobby, I obtained reasonable stock birds from successful local novice exhibitors for a modest outlay. I bred with these birds and their young, to once again learn the finer points about the husbandry associated with breeding pairs. It is remarkable just how much you can forget, believe me.
At the end of the second season, I assessed my stock of birds and selected the best thirty hens to hold over for the next season. I was fortunate that I had bred a bigger percentage of hens than cocks and an added bonus, was that there was some useful stock hens among them. As I had returned to the Fancy as a Novice, I needed to quickly upgrade my stud if I was going to compete on the show bench. So one again I decided to adopt my former practice of buying a small number of better quality cock birds and then run these to as many hens as possible. Except for a couple of separate pairings, I am using only six cocks, each one, in general, excelling in a particular show feature and hopefully not lacking too much in other areas.
Prior to pairing, about on month before that period. I spend as much time as possible studying the hens to decide which hens are to go with the individual cocks, I also look for signs of true breeding condition, other than the usual wood gnawing. I want a hen that is very alert and active all the time, especially those that are bickering over perching positions. I leave out any hens that have spasmodic periods of alertness. I have found that these types are usually unreliable. I also look over the cocks, but in general, if they are through the moult, they are usually ready to go to nest. This year I was fortunate, as all six came into condition at the same time.
Nest boxes are up in position and well filled with sawdust, about half full and the birds have access right from the start. The best cock is put up with the first hen and I have found that if the birds are in breeding condition, mating invariably occurs within five minutes. Seeing them mate is not essential, however I do like the cock to be active and forceful. As for the hens, I do not mind a bit of bickering and initial refusal, but I draw the line at the hen going in feet first. This usually indicates that she is not quite ready and I return her to the flight and try again later.
I pair up early in the day and then leave the cock with the first hen till the evening, when I then introduce him to hen number two. The following monring I put him with the third hen. The cock is then moved twice a day until the sixth egg, and then he is returned to the flight. The hens are left to rear on their own.
You must keep a strict record of the cock bird's movement from one cage to another. If you do not keep good records you can find that you will easily become confused and wind up putting the cock with the wrong hen. You must also be able to devote quite a bit of time to the cock's management, because if you rush, you will put him in the wrong cage. I speak from experience. This means that you end up with two nests of young that you cannot account for accurately when it comes to the pedigree. You will also have to watch the hens closely. If one does not sit, you will have to move the eggs. This year I had several hens that did not sit until four eggs were laid. In these cases I always substitute the eggs with marbles. I also do the same if eggs get 'scrambled' and I have found that by using marbles, it is invariably the cock who does the damage.
All eggs are marked with a felt marker pen and I have not found any significant disadvantage with regard to hatchability. I do get addled eggs and dead-in-shell but not more than others who do not mark eggs. If chicks have to be moved before they are rung, I mark them on the side of each leg. I have found that the down on the legs retains the ink better than anywhere else on the body, although you will have to apply it morning and night to be on the safe side!
No matter how careful you are, you will still have problems. For example, I moved an egg to another nest. This egg was due to hatch two days after the last egg in the nest it was moved to. However both eggs hatched the same day and I ended up with two chicks which I cannot be sure of in regard to their exact pedigree. I know who the cock bird is, as I always move eggs, if possible, to another hen he has been paired with, it is the mother's side that is not known. Of course if the two young tunr out to be inferior specimens you have no problem, but as is usual in this hobby of ours, it is often teh best birds that are involved in any mishap that occurs.
In the past I have always limited the number of young in the nest, where hens are rearing on their own, to three, but this year, due to certain problems and also good results with regard to the number of chicks hatched, I had to leave the hens raising four chicks each. I decided it would be safe to do this, as the hens did not have to forage for food and water, it was all provided within 12 inches of the nest box. I also felt the exercise whould do them good. Those who have seen the hens, after they have reared a nest, will agree that in general you could show the brids with regard to their presentation. Obviously it would not be good practice as you would be putting an added burden on them.
In general, I find I have far less bother leaving the hens on their own, than I do, when cokc and hen are left together. In mostn cases the hens sit tighter, as they are not pestered by the cocks. There are less broken eggs due to 'scrabling' and as I said, using marbles. I have found it is generally the cock who plays football with the eggs. I also find that the hens normally keep the chicks very well fed, which is mroe than I can say, when the cocks ar left with them. I had one cock who denied the hen access to the nest box when the chicks were three weeks old, and eventually I had to remove him. My first round results are as follows. On 28th Novembe, I started putting down 18 pairs, each of the six cocks being paired with three hens.
One pair laid infertile eggs.
Two hens broke eggs as laid (sister).
One nest was all dead-in-shell.
Of the remaining 14 pairs - one laid two eggs, another three; most of the rest laid seven to nine eggs, one hen laid 15. The first six of these eggs were infertile but seven of the remainder hatched and survived. One hen died when the chicks were 3-5-7-9 days old respectively and these had to be fostered. This left 13 hens on their own and these had to rear among them 52 chicks, all of who survived. At the time of writing they are now between 10 and 12 weeks old.
Some of the hens I wanted a second round of chicks from and as I had never done this in the past, I decided to try out the following practice. In some cases I also wanted to change to cock birds around.
When the eldest chick was 28 days old, the desired cock bird was reintroduced into the breeding cage. Now I must stress once again that you must be able to spend a lot of time with you birds, as you will have to stay in close attendance. The cock is left in for 15 minutes. During this time most hens bicker a little and fight off initial advances, but three hens actually went over to the cocks and mating occurred. The following day I repeated the procedure and a further four hens mated. I repeated this daily until five eggs were laid and then the cocks were once again put back in the flight. Two cocks I left with the hens to rear one round, as I did not intend to use them again. Points to note. In some cases I had to remove chicks whilst mating took place, as the presence of these put the cokc off. Watch carefully if the hen accepts the cock into the nest box straight away, as he might well attack the young. I only had one incident of this.
Of the 12 hens I tried for the second time, one laid infertile eggs. The remaining 11 hens, are to dated rearing a further 25 chicks with still more to hatch.
When I make my final pairings, the remaining four cocks will be left with one of the hens to rear young. As this was my first venture into this method since my return to the hobby. I did also put down four pairs of fosters. It is interesting to note, that two hens left the eggs at 17 days; one did not feed day old chicks and the other pair were very poor feeders and their chicks had to be fostered. All were returned to the flight.
Prior to pairing all birds are put on Syrup of Blackthorn for two weeks, at the rate of one teaspoon (5 ml) to a pint of water. All those birds which are paired are left on this until the first egg appears, when I discontinue its use. it acts as a mild purgative and it is very rewarding to see the birds' droppings all turn a rich black and white. I find that using this, the birds become very active and alert.
Feeding is as follows: two-thirds English canary to one-third mixed millets. To this I add codliver oil in the form of Vitapet at the rate of one teaspoon (5 ml) to 3 lb (1.4 kgs) of seed and also P.Y.M. (yeast) powder at the same rate. Sprouting soaked oats are fed to all rearing hens and the chicks, once they are removed from the parents. Oce chicks hatch, milk and water is given on a 50/50 basis until the oldest is 14 days old. I then replace it with Rose Hip syrup (one teaspoonful - 5 ml. to a pint of water - 0.6 litre). This is continued until the next round starts to hatch. The young also receive this until they are 12 weeks old.
I feed my own soft food mixture to all rearing hens and also the youngsters in the training cages. One hardboiled egg to an equal amount of cheese is grated and then added to one slice of brown bread also finely grated. To this mixture I add on tablespoon (15 ml) of milk to make it crumbly and moist. Each rearing hen receives a desertspoonful (10 ml) twice a week and the youngsters in the cages receive it pro rata.
Grated carrot is made available once a week, along with lettuce leaves, but no other greenfood is supplied. Grit pots in the young birds' training cages are replenished every day, as I find they devour this. I also replenish the grit in the breeding cages and flights every week; the old grit is scattered on the flight floor.
I do not envisage using this method on the same scale next year, but this will depend on the quality of young produced. The practice is far too time-consuming to repeat year after year, but it does let one get a footing in the Fancy for a modest outlay, providing one's choice of initial stock is correct. As I said earlier, we all need that touch of luck to succeed on the show bench.
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